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Thread: SR400 heated handgrips

  1. #1
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    SR400 heated handgrips

    I had my shop install a set of Oxford Heaterz on my 2015 SR400, hoping to extend the season a bit into the colder weather. Unfortunately, it appears that the bike doesn't generate enough power to run them for more than a few minutes at a time. The grips automatically switch off when they're not getting enough voltage. Sometimes after a rest I can turn them back on again for a bit, sometimes they just peter out and sulk and won't come back on at all. The consensus at the shop seems to be that there isn't enough power, and there's no room for a bigger battery that would provide enough power.

    I'm not a mechanic, and know even less about wiring and electricity, but I'm wondering if there are any options, or if I should just give up. At the lowest setting or at max doesn't seem to make a difference. There's an override for the auto switch off, but I'm afraid to use it because I don't know if the grips will actually drain the battery in the middle of a ride if I do.

    I can (a) apply a miracle fix and be happy if there is one from someone here, (b) leave them on and just use them when they work, which is rare, or (c) have the shop take them off and put stock grips back on and be out about $125 in labor after my refund on the grips.

    Any ideas or dope-slaps for this idiot?

  2. #2
    A work around would be to run them off a second battery (carried in a topbox) charged up via a battery charger, not the bikes system. Fit a solenoid wired to the key switch to stop you leaving them on accidently.

  3. #3
    Moderator sjef's Avatar
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    hallo slinberg

    welcome to the forum.
    lots of knowledge here.
    one thing could you fill in your location into your profile?
    it might be usefull to know where one lives.
    thank you

    sjef
    moderator

  4. #4
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    You could try led lights to reduce the load. Led headlight and taillight bulbs should free up about 30 watts. Led bulbs in the signal/running lights would so help but you might have problems with the flasher relay being too fast or not triggering because of the reduced load. Try a led headlight bulb first and see if it helps

  5. #5
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    Not sure if this is what you want to get into as you say that you are not so comfortable with electics.
    But..
    The amount of heat available on each setting is determined by the amount of resistance through the wires(again on each setting)
    Usually the range is 1-1.5 ohms.
    You can try to alter the draw by adding a additional resister in the positive lead to effectively lower the heat ranges.
    The grips will still get warm but it will take much longer.
    On this heated grip assy you have are they wired into the electrical system by taping into the regulated DC power side or are they simply wired to the positive and negative battery posts?

  6. #6
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    I believe the SR400 alternator is about 30A @ 12v DC. You might look at rechargable (lithium-ion batter) heated gloves like these:

    https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/fly-i...-heated-gloves

    https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/joe-r...-heated-gloves



    I believe you can also get similar glove liners to use with your regular winter gloves.

  7. #7
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    Thanks very much for these tips. I asked my dealer about an LED headlamp, but apparently it's illegal to modify headlamps where I live (Massachusetts, USA) unless they're DOT-approved, and it's complicated :/ The dealer said "the proper way would be to install a higher output stator and regulator and have a modified battery box made and installed with a bigger battery with better reserve capacity". That sounds expensive ...

    It never even occurred to me to look at battery-powered gloves. That actually makes a lot more sense and I wish I'd thought of it earlier. At this point I'm leaning towards going back to the stock grips and trying a glove-based solution, and eating some of the handgrip labor costs as a general get-smarter lesson. :P Certainly open to any other thoughts as well though, and thanks again and in advance for the tips and help

  8. #8
    Senior Member gcrank1's Avatar
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    By law the dealer or shop may not be able to change the bulb to an LED, you ,as owner, may be able to. Not saying it is so but check into it. The other practical consideration is, who is gonna ask you? Do you have an annual required inspection? If so change the bulb back beforehand.
    Were I you:
    Set the mitts for Low if possible right off; or High only long enough to get them toasty then to Low asap.
    The headlamp always on takes the biggest amps draw out of the system, then the tail. The LED tail replacements also include the brake light. The head and tail will be your best bang for the buck of upping the available generated amps into your mitts.
    The turn signals are only on for brief periods so leave 'em as is, maybe more carefully think about how long you leave them going? (do the new ones have the time-out function?)
    The battery with a bigger reserve capacity wont be any better than the oem after you have run far enough without the charging system capable to cover the total draw. The time run will be a bit longer, but not much, when operating at a deficit mode. This would be my very last thing to even think about changing.
    '81 Yamaha SR500 Caff Racer
    '09 Suzuki TU250X 'The Silent Red Fellow'
    '98 Honda Shadow 750 ACE Deluxe
    In all things maintain your uprightness lest the road reach up and smite thee

  9. #9
    Yep, battery powered gloves is the go...I use 'Five' brand ones...worthwhile...

    They insulate so well you often don't need to turn them on.

    SR
    ...'Any unnecessary items on the bike, that it doesn't really need, shouldn't be there!'. (Café racers creed). SR..

  10. #10
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    You could also try keeping it in lower gears. I believe your alternator provides over 250watts @5000 rpm which should be enough, but at idle it will provide a lot less. Not suggesting you run around at 5000 all the time but if you tend to lug it down you might try changing your shifting habits.

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