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Thread: TT500 motard project

  1. #71
    Interesting work, keep it up. I like the idea of the spring used.

    Will the chain rub on the underside of the swing arm on the overrun?

    Maybe a rubbing block?

    Nice fabrication.

    SR
    ...'Any unnecessary items on the bike, that it doesn't really need, shouldn't be there!'. (Café racers creed). SR..

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewross View Post

    Will the chain rub on the underside of the swing arm on the overrun?

    Maybe a rubbing block?


    SR
    This made me chuckle, well spotted!
    Yes it will rub but depends how much I tighten the spring.

    I'll have to make a rubbing block for the top so I might aswell do the bottom aswell.

    A pic of the oem rubbing block versus the part I made up for comparison.
    I don't know how well the original part worked and I must of intended to use it as I cut it off the original swingarm at some point.
    The roller looks racier though!

    The bottom front engine mounts were cut off today.
    They were quite rusty, not that it would of mattered, but I'll make new ones tomorrow.
    Made up the little support bracket for the chain roller pivot bracket and fully welded up the subframe loop.
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  3. #73
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    Been having a beer and looking at the crankcases. I'm looking forward to attacking them with a die-grinder.
    Removing casting flash, raidiusing oil gallery entries and removing a little excess flab are all little attentions to detail that keep me from getting bored!

    I'll finish the frame first which means sorting out the cylinder head mount. I like the idea of rubber mounting the top mount.
    I believe SR mounts are like this?
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  4. #74
    No SR mounts are solid, but I use a rubber tube inside one and others have mounted pressed-in rubber bushes in one end.

    SR
    ...'Any unnecessary items on the bike, that it doesn't really need, shouldn't be there!'. (Café racers creed). SR..

  5. #75
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    Update time.
    Hopefully going to get to my mates mill tomorrow to spot face a section of the cases to run the hall effect sensor off the crank.
    I'm basically going to replicate the thin sheet metal timing indicator between the primary gear and camshaft drive sprocket for a lobed trigger disc.
    The disc will need to be 6mm thick as called up by the Cherry GS100701 sensor I've identified as workable.
    I made up a jig to hold the cases in the mill at the desired angle. If it machines up ok then hopefully I will be able to use the same jig for the assembled 400 engine aswell.
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  6. #76
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    Why go to all the trouble for this type of sensor, especially as they do a plug in programmable CDI for the stock pickups and magneto?

    A few reasons.

    I don't want to mess with any of the ancient electrical components for this bike and I dont have certain components anyway like a wiring harness for example.
    If I'm going to purchase new stuff it's an ideal time to up-spec as I go.

    The hall effect sensors are more accurate and don't need the trigger to pass them at any velocity to generate a voltage that the CDI box registers as a signal.
    In theory they should time up a bit like a points system that fires the plug turning the crank by hand.

    As the CDI box runs off the battery, in theory I should be able to remove the flywheel and stator and run the bike as the trigger will be now seperate from the charging system (in my system atleast with the trigger and pickup on the righthand side of the engine).
    This would allow the crank to seriously spin up quickly and free up the load of the AC generator aswell.
    It would also mean that I could play around with flywheel masses aswell to find out what might suit a particular riding application.


    The four pics I attached are of the Cheery hall effect sensor/ the section of the case I'm going to spot face and punch a hole through the case for the sensor position/ and two pics of a failed trigger attempt.
    The first trigger I attempted was to go on the outside of the primary gear and was made from a modified OEM spacer.
    The disc obviously has no lobes cut into it yet but the 75mm diameter and 5mm thickness was correct and taken from the timing disc.
    Unfortunately the oil gallery in the clutch cover that feeds the end of the crank couldn't be relieved enough for the swing radius of the trigger disc.
    Anyway it's a learning experience and design number 2 is bit neater in hindsight. Hopefully it works aswell which goes for the whole ignition redesign altogether!
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  7. #77
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    The last 2 pics are of the lower front engine mounts that I cutout and fabbed up from scratch.
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  8. #78
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    Well I've been a bit distracted by my RS125 trackbike which should get an outing soon.

    I did get to mount my engine cases in the mill and spot face the section earmarked for the CDI pickup.
    I'm going to wait till I've ordered the pickup to continue on it.

    I emailed Ignitech and got some good info that I'm happy enough to proceed with.

    They can do a single channel CDI with more spark energy.
    They can also do a non-wasted spark by starting the engine on wasted spark (fires at over-lap/ every TDC event) and then by measuring the time the lobe goes past the pickup (time between the leading edge and trailing edge of the lobe) they can differentiate between overlap and compression.
    Impressive stuff if they can achieve this.

    They have also quoted 1.2amps current usage at 10000rpm for the double spark energy modifaction which doesn't sound like much to me.
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