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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:04 am 
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Hey Edward,
It is sure looking good now. That's huge progress that you have made.have you got any idea when you will be putting the bearings back into the wheels. I wouldn't mind a gander at how you do that. You must be pretty close to having the necessary bits & pieces to get a roller together.
don


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 4:17 pm 
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Don_in_Sydney wrote:
Hey Edward,
It is sure looking good now. That's huge progress that you have made.have you got any idea when you will be putting the bearings back into the wheels. I wouldn't mind a gander at how you do that. You must be pretty close to having the necessary bits & pieces to get a roller together.
don


Thanks Don,
I knocked the bearings in last night, the only bearings left to go in are the ones in the cush hub.
To knock them in, I just line them up on top, give a gentle tap with my wooden mallet until it starts to go in. Once it starts just make sure it is going in square and keep on tapping. Stop if it doesn't move, as on the odd occasion is goes in crocked and you need to knock it back out and start again. Once it is flush with the surface, I grab an appropriately sized socket that with sit on the outer race, and tap the socket to drive the bearing home. You know it is driven home as the sound changes from a thud to a ring.

The seals are usually just a push in with your hands, sometimes a little persuasion is needed, but this needs to be done with care as the seals don't like to be pounded as thet start to shiw signs of distortion or damage.

Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 2:14 am 
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The mail man left a gift at the doorstep today.
This should see me out for bits
Now the jigsaw puzzle starts in earnest
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There are some cool looking bits.
I can't wait to get the tail light assembly together all led

Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:34 am 
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Excellent! Plenty to do now then... ;)

SR :)

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...'Any unnecessary items on the bike, that it doesn't really need, shouldn't be there!'. (Café racers creed). SR...


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:46 am 
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Plenty to do is an understatement.
There is also still much to learn. Mostly the hard way.


I thought I would start by slipping the motor back in the frame and start getting some pieces off the floor and on the bike.
First move fit the battery tray, CDI, and regulator... another issue, the CDI hits the frame right at the tabs for the relays. To fix the issue I added 1 additional washer to the spacers which lower the front by 40mm, and the CDI is clear. Win...
Regulator mounted to the underside of the tray. Done.

Alright onto the next job, this should be easy right? I did all the home work, I am using the standard inlet manifold, the Keihin inlet spigot to a 78 SR500, and the filter adapter to suit. The filter was selected based on discussions with Adrian at Vanem(nice bloke and really helpful) and all should fit... Tight, fiddly, but fit.

Onto the FCR, it bolted up nicely as expected from the trial fit, now the filter. I ordered the Posh filter with the 17 degree bend to clear the frame and get the filter into the middle of the bike. No matter how much I tried there was no way it was going to fit. The filter hits the regulator on the underside if the tray... Off with the regulator, I can always find another place for the regulator.
Back to fitting the filter, now it hits the bolt heads for the CDI... Off with the CDI, now the filter hits the tray and the frame... Back to square one. Lose.

When everything goes together, there are millimetre "gaps" that need to be closed up and things will fit.
First gap 2mm at the manifold, the second at the filter spigot approximately 4mm.
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The filter adapter will be easily done as the shoulder which is stopping the filter from slidding on further can be removed right down to the bolt head, and the spigot should be simple also as it just needs to be shortened. This means leaving this job as I need access to a lathe.
Ok time to sort the tray out then.
The issue identified. The trays are predrilled for later model bikes and therefore the 78s need new holes for mounting the gear, and likely remote mounting of the regulator. Given new locations are needed for the bolts on the tray, may as well leave this until the filter is fitted. Another job left for later.

Alright this means i can get other bits on.
Lower triple clamp in, forks, headlight, clip-ons, steering stop, blinkers (they went on 3 times to get them right)... Wrong bolts, then fronts on the rear and rears on the front. I never thought that I would need to consult instructions to mount blinkers, wrong. for information the rears come with longer wires than the front.
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File comment: Ignore the rusty bolt
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When i fitted the top bracket and tried the new billet alloy bolt to replace the rusty chrome one, i found it way too tight, it appears it was one of the last to have its threads cut with a worn die. I am trying to find a die to run it through with a hope to take a whisker off and let it wind in.

I have ordered a zinc cladding kit to tidy up all the bolts wihich would allow assembly of the wheels and swing arm. However in usual form for my build. They say 1 week delivery and now I'm 3 weeks and still waiting. On to something new.

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:21 am 
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Here is a close up of the rear set brackets I have made up. Thanks to Stew for his templates which was a great help and the starting point for the design.

I still need to work out the linkages, the pivot hole is currently drilled at 6mm so that I can make up the levers and ensure they pivot properly before I cut them out of 6mm aluminium and pivot them from the peg.

Theses will mount on the original footpeg mounts which I have counter bored to take a M8 bolt. This also came in handy as a centre punch to mark the holes before I drilled them. Note the pointy threaded inserts.
Attachment:
File comment: Rear set with Brembo MC
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I wanted to use the original right switch control, except when it was opened up the kill switch mech was buggered, so I came up with a replacement idea.
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File comment: Kill switch
IMAG0521.jpg
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A simple press button from Jaycar which is IP65 rated, fit this into a brass plug and bingo.

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 5:25 am 
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Another lesson learnt. After doing some research on KBS coatings diamond finish. I thought I would give it a go on my fork legs. Apparently it is flexible, yet goes rock hard and doesn't go yellow. The data sheet for application says you can spray or foam brush apply and the stuff self levels. Yep all good points. Even better they claim adhesion to polished aluminium.

So here we go, forks cleaned up, a little light buffing to restore the shine prior to coating, cleaned the surface with prepsol (grease and wax remover) I did not use adhesion promoter or wash the surface with their aquaklean product. I applied 2 spray coats within 24hrs, and then waited for 3 days for it to cure as I had a couple of runs which I wanted to get out. While wet sanding, I picked a little over spray and it came right off, curiosity got the better of me and I checked a discrete location and the coating came off like a sheet of plastic.

No photos sorry, as I was a bit to peeved at the time.

I peeled both fork legs off without a scratch to the polished legs. Guess I will leave then polished and just keep giving them some love every now and again to ensure the shine.

I might give it another go on something smaller. I have got some aquaklean for another job. If it works with the aquaklean prep I'll be surprised, but I'll give it go anyway.

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:56 am 
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I know this seems like going backwards.
Rearset brackets in previous post, started in 10mm plate, scribed and cut out on a bandsaw to get this
Attachment:
File comment: Rough cut brackets
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Fine shaping with a tungsten carbide cutter bit for a dremel in my pedestal drill. Slow and steady. This with combined with my bench linisher with 120 grit cleaned up the shape, and finished with a red scotchbrite belt.
Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:04 pm 
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man! that is so nice!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:08 pm 
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Alright this means i can get other bits on.
Lower triple clamp in, forks, headlight, clip-ons, steering stop, blinkers (they went on 3 times to get them right)... Wrong bolts, then fronts on the rear and rears on the front. I never thought that I would need to consult instructions to mount blinkers, wrong. for information the rears come with longer wires than the front


I guess reading the instruction first could help right, haha... pretty sure the wire lengths are shown for that kit :?


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